Everything Bagels

While my weeknight cooking strategy is "quick and easy," my special occasion strategy is "over the top." I love to challenge myself to cook things that are multi-course, multi-cultural, and/or a homemade version of something you usually only eat out. 

Take this Valentine's Day, where my goal was a weekend brunch of homemade bagels, smoked salmon and cream cheese. Not being much of a baker, I was so intimidated leading up to it that I read the recipe 50 times and pulled out every thermometer and scale I have to make sure I could triple-check every measurement with minute accuracy.

Turns out, making bagels isn't that difficult...as long as you follow the recipe correctly. About 30 minutes in the kitchen on Thursday night produced the dough (making only 1 dirty pan and 1 dirty food processor...but because of my anal measuring about 15 dirty ingredient bowls) and the shaped dough was in the fridge to rise until Saturday morning. Then just a quick boil, dip in toppings and bake and they turned golden to perfection. I'd say I spent less than an hour total to make the freshest bagels I've ever eaten.

My brunch success would never have happened without Serious Eats and, specifically, Brave Tart, who work endless hours testing the science behind every recipe before releasing it to the world. I know I can trust them with anything...even if a step seems strange or an ingredient seems to much, I know to go with them vs. my gut and they're right every time. So thank you, guys. Without you I would never have eaten 4 bagels in one day.

Recipe from Serious Eats

Homemade Bagels (makes 8 small bagels)

  • For the Yukone:

    • 6 ounces cold water

    • 3 1/2 ounces bread flour

  • For the Dough:

    • 12 1/2 ounces bread flour

    • 1/2 ounce sugar

    • 2 1/2 teaspoons (9g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt

    • 1 teaspoon instant dry yeast (see note)

    • 3 1/2 ounces water

    • Everything Bagel topping

For the Yukone: In a 10-inch skillet, whisk water and flour over medium heat until the paste is as thick as mashed potatoes, about 2 minutes. Scrape onto a plate, spread into a 1-inch layer, cover and cool until to about 75°F (23°C), around 30 minutes.

For the Dough: Pulse flour, sugar, salt, and instant yeast in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Once combined, add cooled yukone and water (if using active dry yeast, first dissolve with the water). Process until dough is silky smooth, about 90 seconds. Turn dough onto a clean, un-floured surface, and divide into 8 roughly equal portions (3 ounces or 85g each).

To Shape: Cup a portion of dough beneath your palm and work in quick, circular motions to form a tight skin around the ball, with only a tiny seam along the bottom. (While doing this, cover the rest of the dough with saran wrap so it doesn't try out) If the seam is large or irregular, continue rounding until the bottom is nearly smooth. Cover with plastic and let rest 15 minutes. Poke a hole into the center of each portion with a damp fingertip, then gently stretch into a 3 1/4-inch ring, wetting your hands in cold water as needed to prevent sticking. Arrange on a well greased, parchment-lined half sheet pan, cover with plastic, and refrigerate 24 to 36 hours, depending on your schedule.

To Boil: Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat to 425°F (218°C). Fill a stainless steel pot with about 3 inches of water, stir in malt (if using), and bring to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet or cutting board with a thick layer of paper towels and pour the everything topping into a rimmed dish. Working two or three at a time, boil the bagels about 30 seconds per side. Place on paper towels, then immediately transfer into the toppings, then to a parchment-lined half sheet pan (if left on the paper towels too long, the bagels will stick; if this happens, quickly dip the bagel back into the hot water, and the wet paper towel will peel right off).

To Finish: Bake until blistered and golden brown all over, about 25 minutes. Cool at least 15 minutes. To serve, split horizontally with a serrated knife. Uncut, bagels can be stored up to 48 hours in a paper bag (or loosely wrapped in parchment), then sliced and briefly toasted to serve.